Відео

Thank you, Bruce :) Glad you were able to take it for a spin, despite the clouds ruining the evening.

Thanks, Rich! Totally agree. I'm holding out for the new version before I buy myself one.

Yeah I never really understood the mindset of gatekeepers, not just in astronomy but anything really. And in this case, I disagree with anyone who say it's not legitimate. Sure, it's not for everyone but whether you use a $10k rig, a $500 smart telescope, or just your eyes, you should be free to do your thing.

A smart mount would be cool. ZWO just came out with the ASI2600MC Pro Duo Air which is an astro cam, guide cam, and ASI Air in one. So I won't be surprised if they come out with something like the AM5 Air with a built in ASIAir on the AM5 mount. We have things that get close like the AZ-GTi in alt-az mode or pretty much any modern goto mount with a computer. But a smart mount that can auto polar align will be amazing.

Thank you 😊 Totally agree with the point of getting data to learn post processing! That's a great way to think about it.

I'm loving it so far. Everything looks so crispy with it. I'm looking forward to the reducer that's coming out soon. If you haven't already watched, I did a first light review of the 71F here: ua-cam.com/video/zNXAu4TBRmA/v-deo.html Planning on doing another video once I get my hands on the reducer.

I didn't know they were planning a reducer, that's good to hear! I'm about to order the 71 with a 533mc, I think it's a good budget option.

Yea they're planning to release it late September. Use my referral link if you can ☺️

Will do! If my math is right the reducer will bring it close to 350mm?

367.5mm to be exact at f/5.18. Should be perfect with the 533mc.

That's fair and that's why I made the distinction in the video that experienced astrophotographers will be disappointed. The seestar is definitely not made for everyone. But I think there's a lot to learn for beginners and for those who don't do astrophotography. For people getting into astronomy in general, the seestar is great for exploring the sky. Easy way to learn learn constellations, identify asterisms, etc. But for experienced astrophotographers, if they want to get a seestar, they need to go in with a different mindset. As I mentioned, I think it's great for outreach purposes and a great companion rig. It cannot compete with even a basic full AP rig. Most old school astronomers felt the same way about go-to telescopes, so we should try our best not to discourage others even if something doesn't work for us 🙂

nit picker --- if you live in a bortle 7 - 8 sky a smart telescope as the seestar S50 or the Vespera scopes. is the best idea. Post processing is theer always because those scopes only stack. also count if you want the same it is going to cost you a lot more (goto Alt/Az mount, ED50 scope, 462 camera, Mini-PC or Laptop, CLS or nebula filter, Batterypack)

Hope you don’t use Goto technology then

I like cheating. I paid $399 and processing some great images...😂

@@henribuhagiar9445 Funny, Alt/Az goto mounts exists ioptron has them

Good eye! Looking at it frame by frame, I see 4 skinny limbs in a couple of frames which I think are the satellite's antennae. Small possibility it's also a bird at a weird angle.

Before we know it, the next one will be here.

I have a couple of videos that may help. This first one uses AutoStakkert!4 to process a .ser file into an image: ua-cam.com/video/KrKCVU6luHY/v-deo.html I don't do any post processing in that video but I have a full step by step video here: ua-cam.com/video/KrKCVU6luHY/v-deo.html - You could probably skip to the processing parts since the first half of the video is all about capture. Good luck! Let me know how it goes and if you caught the ISS.

@@Naztronomy this is awesome. I’ll check them out soon. I appreciate you 💪🏽🤙🏽💯

@@Naztronomy do you change focus any when trying to catch the ISS or do you just focus on the sun as usual?

Just focus on the sun. If you can focus on a sunspot, that's even better.

Have you tried testing the 8SE and the camera during the day time on something terrestrial? If not, I'd recommend pointing it to a far away tree or something and see if that works. A large SCT is really hard to focus so your focus just may be off. For the Lunt, I'd recommend finding and centering the sun with an eyepiece first. Use the Sol Searcher to find the sun then the eyepiece to center it. Then install the camera and try to find focus. And try a longer exposure, maybe start with a 5 second exposure. It's a long time so you may see a white screen at first but at least this will tell you that the camera is seeing light. Let me know if you're still having issues after trying these. Good luck!

@@Naztronomy thank you very much. i'll try all that I'll keep you updated

Yep! The SolarQuest has an 11lbs limit and the Lunt 60 is about 7 lbs. I've used the mount with my 6" SCT and a DSLR which comes out to around 10-11lbs without any issues.

Thank you ❤

Thank you 😊

Ahh I'd love to go to Alaska one day for the northern lights. I had friends who lived there for a few years but they moved back here before I could visit them there.

A 2" diagonal should be fine. There was plenty of length left on the focuser tube when I used my 1.25" Diagonal. I can borrow my friend's 2" diagonal at some point to test as well.

Thank you! If you can use Wine on your mac, you should be able to run all these apps on your iMac. It's an extra step but it should run all the apps as expected. Portingkit is another one that may work. I don't have a Mac so I can't confirm but I've run some of these on Linux environments with Wine in the past. Let me know if you have questions or run into issues. Clear skies!

Not at the moment, you'll have to get the ZWO SCT kit for that.

I need to test this with my 6" newt. I feel your pain and the focuser was a big reason why I rarely use it. I'll test the iEAF with the newt at some point, should be much better.

Thank you! It was a lot of fun to test and review 😊

Thank you! What would you consider garbage stats? I'm working on a few other review videos so I'll try my best to stay away from that in those videos.

Awesome! Hope you have fun with it. I agree that starting small is the best way to start. I wish I did that :)

They're coming out with a reducer soon so it's even more attractive now!

@@Naztronomy ah that’s nice but I already got the spacecat 51 (redcat 51 but different design) for 600$ used from a local guy but thanks for the info!!!

@@icyxxxxx Ahhh awesome! I really wanted the SpaceCat when it came out but I waited too long and everything went out of stock and then no one was selling it. I ended up getting the AT60 with a reducer instead. Not as good as the RedCat/SpaceCat but good enough for me.

Thanks for the kind words! 3D printing the spacers sound good, let me know how it goes and if you have a design you'd like to share. I could use some too 😊

Thanks! And I agree. SharpStar/Askar is stepping up its game with the quality and price point, hoping other manufacturers follow.

Do you have anything else with the SV503? Or are you looking to build a rig around it? I looked it up and it's a doublet so if you don't already have a flattener, you'll need to get one for astrophotography. If you want to guide, Svbony has a good guide scope, I use their 60mm guide scope. You can also get an OAG to save on weight. For a mount, I use my AZ-GTi in eq mode for portability. There's also the SkyWatcher Star Adventurer 2i which is popular. As for a camera, you can pretty much go with anything. A cooled camera like t he ASI533MC may be good. That's what I use as my primary and I love it. If you have any specific questions, let me know.

Glad it was helpful! Good luck with your processing!

Awesome! Good luck and let me know if you have questions.

Thank you! Congrats on your scope and your new mono cam! Which camera are you getting? I have a timelapse I did here: ua-cam.com/video/JXfsQuE1GIk/v-deo.html Unfortunately, I don't have a tutorial yet. I planned on making one using the frames from that video but I had a tough time with the field rotation so I need to redo it all from scratch. But the idea is to essentially batch stack them in autostakkert, then back process in IMPPG, then you can set up photoshop actions to colorize it all, then you can use a video editing software (or ffmpeg) to create an animation. The field rotation piece isn't necessary if you use an Equatorial mount. I think when I re-attempt the timelapse, I need to switch it to one of my EQ mounts and retry. Feel free to ask any questions in the meantime and I'll do my best to answer them. Clear skies!

@@Naztronomy I got the asi678mm. It came in today but I probably won’t be able to attempt imaging till tomorrow 😕. I have the solar quest so I’ll probably have some rotational issues as you mentioned, but I’ll just stick to shorter exposure times. I may try with my benro Polaris if I find the right adapter but I guess the main thing is trying to get some good images. Will see how that goes. 🤙🏽

Awesome camera! I agree that you should definitely try to do some regular imaging first and then move to a timelapse when you are comfortable enough. Maybe by then, I'll have my video done :)

True! I intentionally didn't select an ROI here. I had more live streams planned where I was going to drill down more into h-alpha imaging but weather never cooperated. Maybe next fall!

@@Naztronomy weather is rarely cooperating.. or when it is, you often have personal or professional obligations - murphy's law :)

@@astrodysseus Ha! Exactly!

Check out my latest h-alpha video, I have a way to insert my newer camera to avoid the newton rings: ua-cam.com/video/KrKCVU6luHY/v-deo.html The rings also get mostly averaged out in post-processing.

If you have elongation on the edges, it may be your backfocus. If you look up how backfocus affects star shapes, you should be able to find some guides that will guide you on whether you need more or less back spacing. OPT has some nice images near the middle of the page: optcorp.com/blogs/deep-sky-imaging/how-to-set-the-correct-back-focus

Good question! The telescope itself is doing the magnification. With Eyepieces, you can calculate the magnification. For example, this telescope with a focal length of 490mm and with a 25mm eyepiece, you get 20x magnification. With a camera though, it's harder to calculate "magnification" because cameras are all looking at the 'field of view' which is basically, how much of the sky can you see on the sensor. And the FOV can depend on the size of the sensor itself so a smaller sense would look "zoomed in" even though it's technically zoomed in the same amount as any other sensor, you just see less of the sky. If that makes sense. Let me know if you have any more questions. I know it's not the easiest to understand over text. It's always better to see it for yourself. If you have access to a local astronomy club, I highly recommend checking them out and see if anyone can show you what I'm talking about in person, but I'm happy to explain further if you have more questions.